San Telmo, that Buenos Aires mix

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  Julieta Fraguío 14/06/2016

Near the House Rosada is the oldest and most bohemian neighborhood in the Federal Capital. Among antique dealers and traditional coffee shops, you still feel a genuine Buenos Aires there.

Colonial houses, cobbled streets and lanterns that illuminate narrow sidewalks are part of the landscape that San Telmo offers. Despite the real estate boom and the landing of fashion, art and gastronomy venues that were modernizing the appearance of the area, even today the neighborhood beats to the rhythm of its history. Its suburban and nostalgic air, typical of Buenos Aires, is combined with the most modern and contemporary cultural trends.

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Comprised of the streets Chile, Defensa and Piedras and the avenues Ingeniero Huergo, Brazil, Paseo Colón, Martín García y Caseros, the district owes its name the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo. However, originally, the land known as El Alto due to its high geography was a port area. & nbsp; Calle Real, today Defensa, was the busiest as it connected the banks of the Riachuelo, where the port was , with the Plaza Mayor (currently Plaza de Mayo). & nbsp; Its first settlers settled strategically on that road and at the end of the 18th century in a wasteland they established a stop for the carts that transported the merchandise. That place today is Plaza Coronel Dorrego, the neuralgic center of the neighborhood, and a key point to understand part of Argentine history. Explore the history of San Telmo with the Walking CityTours of Tangol.

The square was the scene for the oath of independence of the residents of Buenos Aires, signed in Tucumán in 1816, but it also became the epicenter from from which the most traditional patrician families of Buenos Aires were established. Its colonial mansions marked the architectural profile of the neighborhood, although the identity of the commune was the product of the working and poor classes.

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In 1871, with the yellow fever epidemic, the wealthiest residents moved north of the city and their homes became tenements. Immigrants, who at that time arrived in large contingents from different parts of Europe, rented the rooms of these huge houses to live with their families until they could progress, sharing with the others kitchen, bathroom and patio. Thus, to the overcrowding, the mixture of cultures, languages and sounds that is still conserved was added, to the point that tango and candombe are still heard on its cobblestone streets, while walking between churches of different origins and religions .

While the neighborhood was declining and was acquiring its definitive air of stately humility, the Mercado del Comercio operated in the plaza. Although this was demolished in 1897 when the current San Telmo Market was inaugurated, the perimeter always kept alive that universe of buying and selling with the creation in 1970 of the Fair of Old Things and Antiques (open every weekend) . Its inauguration finished sealing the essence of the jurisdiction, since, from its appearance, antique dealers began to proliferate in all the surroundings. Try the experience of the Bicycle Tours in the south of the City.

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Since then, they have widened avenues and demolished historical places (including the Casa del Naranjo, the oldest in the city, dating from the 17th century), but San Telmo has not lost its original perfume. Not only because many constructions with patrimonial value still exist, such as the Minimum House, the Old Warehouse or the House of the Ezeiza, among others, but also because its old man shops and tanguerías have managed to metabolize contemporary times. As a fusion space that knew how to be, rich and poor at the same time, the neighborhood, margin and center of the city, houses modern art museums and exclusive design workshops, along with warehouses and used fairs; as well as the classic cafes, in the style of Poetry, El Federal or El Británico, coexist with signature restaurants. This cocktail certainly outlines our personality. & Nbsp;

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