Los Glaciares National Park

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  Julieta Fraguío 19/04/2018

It is located in the region known as the Southern Andes of the Argentine territory, to the southwest of the Santa Cruz province on the border with Chile with a total area of ??more than 700,000 hectares. Due to its imposing natural beauty, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1981. In Los Glaciares National Park you will be able to see an incredible scenery of mountains, lakes and forests, including a large portion of the Andes Mountains that It is practically covered in ice and snow.

Its name is due to the presence of numerous glaciers, it is the largest ice sheet in the world after Antarctica! It is also known as Continental Patagonian Ice because it feeds 47 large glaciers, of which 13 descend towards the Atlantic basin. In addition, there are more than 200 smaller glaciers, independent of the Patagonian Ice Field.

Although the great masses of ice are usually found on our planet at more than 2500 meters above sea level (masl) in the Park, they originate at only 1500 masl of altitude and descend to 200 masl, which allows access and unique display in the world.

Below we are going to detail the most outstanding points of the National Park together with all the information and useful data so that during your visit you do not miss anything:




Flora and fauna


The Park has about 260,000 hectares that are covered by ice and another 95,000 by lakes. Therefore, there is a large part of the park that has no vegetation. However, the extension is so great that you can find an important wooded area covered by trees of the genus Nothofagus such as lenga (it supports very low temperatures and can be found close to glaciers), ñire (Nothofagus antárctica) and Coihué o sour cherry (Nothofagus betuloides). They can be seen covered with Usnea, commonly called "old man's beard". This name is due to its shape of long ribbons that hang from the logs. Another species that is common to see in the forests is the notro shrub, it has red flowers that can be seen during the summer. While in the most humid areas of the forest you will find the devil's elder bush, known for its important medicinal properties. There is also a vine that will draw your attention for its showy red flowers, the Luzuriaga Marginata, you will be able to see it at the edge of streams or at the foot of trunks.

On your journey through the trails you will surely find the tasty purple fruit with yellow flowers known as El Calafate, which the city honors.




In the western area of the Park towards the Spegazzini is the so-called Magellanic hygrophilous forest. In these sectors, from the level of the lakes to approximately 500 meters, the forests are dominated by the sour cherry (Nothofagus betuloides), which in the most favorable places can reach 20 to 30 meters in height and a meter in diameter. . Accompanying the sour cherry, the cinnamon tree is frequent, which reaches 8 to 12 meters in height.

Other low plants that can be found in the National Park are ferns, mosses, lichens and flowers, such as topa-topa (they are yellow and can be seen from November to February) and orchids. The blue-flowered peas grow very close to the glaciers forming tapestries, and the Antarctic Pinguicula with purple-colored flowers. They are carnivorous plants that digest insects through nitrogenous substances.

Regarding the fauna, of the twenty-four species of mammals that the area harbors, the cat of the pajonal and the huiña are the only ones that appear as threatened in the national lists and find their refuge in the Park.

Another exotic species that you can find walking around the area is the friendly gray fox. Guanacos abound, and the herds of these calm camelids you will be able to observe them throughout the journey. There are also the wild cat, red fox, piche, ferret, skunk, tucu-tucu, huemul (a highly threatened native deer) and the pilquín, also called the orange chinchillón or mountain squirrel. This pilquín is native to Santa Cruz.




Within the Park 115 species of birds were registered, five of which nest in it. Among them is the Macá Tobiano that is in extinction and protected in the park. You will also be able to see a large number of condors and shielded eagles on the highest hills.

The short choique or ñandú is also common to find in the surroundings. Other common birds are the cauquenes, some species of hawks, owls, owls, parrots, the southern bandurria, the carancho (Polyborus plancus), the chimango (Milvago chimango), the jotes, the harriers (Buteo), the torcaza, the calandria Patagonian, the herder, the pythio, the red-headed woodpecker, the small woodpecker, the red chest, the Patagonian thrush and the goldfinches.

The rivers and lakes are populated by an autochthonous fish, locally called "peladilla" and it is usually the one that is most extracted in fishing activities. There are also large numbers of rainbow trout, lake trout (Canadian trout), smallmouth bass, Chinook salmon, and brown trout. Fortunately, exotic species were not introduced in the National Park, as happens in other Patagonian parks and where the ecosystem is radically modified.


When to visit the National Park


El Parque Nacional de los Glaciares se puede visitar durante todo el año. Aunque debes de tener en cuenta que en los meses de invierno(desde mayo a septiembre), las temperaturas en el parque estarán por debajo de 0° C con máximas de -1°C y mínimas de -8°C. A pesar de esto, podrás disfrutar de todos los paisajes nevados. Además, otra de las ventajas es que habrá menos afluencia de turistas y los precios de alojamiento y transporte son más baratos.




During the summer season (between the months of January and March), the temperatures in the park are around with maximums of 2 ° C and minimums of -4 ° C. At this time you can enjoy lush green vegetation. As it is high season, the prices of accommodation and transport will be higher. Another important fact is that at this time there is more probability of rain. That is why it is recommended that apart from warm clothing, hat, gloves and trekking boots, you always wear a waterproof jacket.

During the autumn it is also a good option to visit the Park because in addition to observing the glaciers you can see an explosion of colors in the flora with different shades of green, yellow, orange and reddish.

Do not forget sunscreen and sunglasses, they are necessary to observe the glaciers without risk and protect the skin from strong exposure to the sun's rays!

For your walks, also take into account the length of the day varies greatly depending on the time of year: in summer you can enjoy about 17 hours of light and in winter the day is shorter, it arrives at 8 hours.


The most important glaciers in the National Park


Perito Moreno Glacier


It is the best known and most impressive of the glaciers with its 30 kilometers long, 5 wide and with a height that reaches 60 meters. It is located in the extreme south, in front of the Magallanes Peninsula, 78 kilometers from El Calafate, the epicenter of all activities and services. This glacier shows a surprising and curious phenomenon, in which its great mass of ice advances continuously, causing the accumulation, rupture and detachment of gigantic blocks of ice on its front, located on the Canal de los Témpanos; This is where the many ice fragments of the glacier navigate. One way to observe this natural spectacle is through boat rides, walks on ice or tours of the walkways that are in front of the Perito Moreno.




It is important that you keep in mind that within the National Park there is only one place where you will be able to order food and that is the Perito Moreno Glaciar Bar located in front of the glacier and a few meters from the walkways. It is a heated place, it has bathrooms and it is free to enter, since you can also bring your lunch and eat while you watch the panoramic views of Perito Moreno from its windows. This place is open every day from 11.30 am to 4 pm. You can have a coffee to warm up or consume some of the menu items: sandwiches, empanadas, salads, pasta, cakes and pastries: cakes, croissants and alfajores. There are all kinds of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.


Upsala and Spegazzini

Other glaciers that stand out in the park are Upsala and Spegazzini. The first is the third longest in South America with a width of 13 kilometers, and its walls reach a height of 40 meters. While the Spegazzini, its main feature is its height of 135 meters and impressive iceberg barriers that make it impressive. The Spegazzini is the highest in the National Park. Both glaciers can only be seen through navigations that depart from the Port of Punta Bandera.




Onelli

It is the most remote of all and the least known because it is very difficult to access, since both the lagoon and the Upsala arm of Lake Argentino tend to fill with icebergs, which makes navigation difficult for boats that carry out lake excursions. But when conditions are favorable, the navigations that go to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers include a descent into Onelli Bay, where a small lenga forest is crossed until you can see it.


Other outstanding places to visit


Lake Roca


It is located in the southern part of the park, half an hour from the entrance. It is a good option to see the typical Patagonian steppe landscape in contrast to the ñires and lengas forests. This area offers quiet places sheltered from the wind, ideal for camping (Camping Huala) or hiking to nearby hills such as Cristal and discovering cave paintings. One way to enjoy these mountain landscapes is through horseback riding, where you will have views of the Perito Moreno Glacier and the panoramic viewpoint on the Magallanes Peninsula. With the horseback riding you will have greater ease to see the Patagonian fauna: deer, guanacos and condors.

Sport fly fishing is also carried out in this lake. There are qualified guides who offer their services to go out for a whole day. The species that you will be able to find are rainbow trout, lake trout (Canadian trout), smallmouth perch, Chinook salmon and brown trout.

If you are interested in fly fishing, it is important to keep in mind that the season runs from November to April. After April 19, fishing is not allowed within 300 meters of the mouth of the rivers that drain into the lake and the daily limit is two trout per fisherman.




Cerro Chalten

Touring Los Glaciares National Park you will see the highest peaks and the greatest diversity of forms of the mountain range. The maximum height is Mount Fitz Roy with 3405 meters high and Cerro Torre with 3102 meters. Both are located within the Park in the town of El Chaltén, three hours from the city of El Calafate along National Route 40. Mount Fitz Roy is one of the most difficult mountains to climb in the world, one of the main reasons Its difficulty is the ice and wind that it receives constantly, even in good weather. The ancient inhabitants called this mountain "Chaltén", a name that comes from "Ahónikenk" and means "mountain that smokes". This is because the clouds settle almost all day on its summit, so for the ancestors it was a volcano more than a hill. The Fitz can only be climbed for a short time in the summer months.




The town of El Chaltén, was founded in 1985, is the youngest town in our country. Currently, it has a population of just over 300 inhabitants, and a growing offer of tourist services such as hotels, gastronomy and a wide variety of activities for high-level mountaineers and lovers of hiking, since it is considered the Capital of Trekking. El Chaltén is also one of the gateways to get to Torres del Paine, just across the border from Chile.

First inhabitants of the National Park

Archaeological investigations indicate that three thousand years ago, the Lake Argentino region was inhabited by groups of hunters and gatherers. They were agile and able to take advantage of the spaces in the steppe as in the forest at heights from 200 to 1100 above sea level.

They subsisted mainly from the exploitation of the guanaco, in addition to using the different environments in a complementary way at different times of the year. Materials from the Pacific Ocean were also discovered, which suggests that they had direct access to those areas or the existence of exchange networks.




Tourist stays within the National Park


If what you are looking for is to be close to the main attractions that this Park has and enjoy its surroundings at all times. There are two rooms that have exclusive rooms for your stay:


Nibepo Aike


It is an ideal refuge for travelers, it keeps the essence of the old Patagonian estancias. It is located on the margin of the South Arm of Lake Argentino. It covers an area of more than 12,000 hectares and extends to the border with Chile. Nibepo Aike works in the old helmet house with views of the Andes mountain range. It has 11 rooms, games and reading rooms. A boutique sector and a dining room. The environment is heated. The menu is based on the typical foods of the region. In the ranch you will see all kinds of country activities such as shearing, rodeos and milking. You will also have the possibility to go horseback riding and enjoy hiking.




Cristina Lodge


It is a unique place located on the northwest coast of Lake Argentino, it has 20 rooms distributed in 5 cabins with exclusive access to the most impressive view of the Upsala Glacier. The Estancia Cristina is accessed only by boat, the accommodation program is all-inclusive: transfers to the farm, gastronomy, a museum and activities (horseback riding, trekking, mountain biking, 4x4 travel, fishing). The Cristina Ranch preserves the essence of its founders Joseph Masters and his wife, a pioneer family in the region that founded this incredible space in 1914.




Campsites


If you enjoy nature and wild places, within the National Park there are two campsites, both on Lago Roca (50km from the entrance to the Park). One is El Huala, it is open all year round and is completely free. It does not have any type of service. There are tables, fixed wooden benches, a stove and access to the lake.

2 kilometers from El Huala, you will find Camping Lago Roca. This is concessioned, has pantry services, rental of camping equipment, bathrooms, benches, tables, stoves and access to the lake. You will also be able to enjoy a perfect view of the summit of Cerro Cristal.


How to get to the National Park


The entrance to Los Glaciares National Park is located 60 kilometers from the city of El Calafate (it is the closest urban center, which makes it the epicenter of almost all activities). From here there are three ways to get there: by renting a car, taking a bus (They leave from the bus terminal at 1 pm and return at 8 pm) or by hiring an excursion to Perito Moreno, where the transfer is included. If you choose to go by car or bus, the trip begins on Provincial Route No. 11 that borders the southern bank of Lake Argentino. This first section is covered by asphalt road in excellent condition. Then it merges with Route 60 and after 48 kilometers of the route you will reach the entrance of Los Glaciares National Park.

By car you can also get to the park from:


Rio gallegos

Take the provincial route N ° 5 towards the mountain range, then the R.N. N ° 40 and finally RP N ° 11. This 315 kilometer route is completely paved and crosses the arid steppe of the Santa Cruz river valley.




Fees and Schedules to enter the National Park


When arriving at the entrance of the National Park from any of the roads, the entrance fee must be paid which has the following values valid for all of 2020:

General rate: 800.00 ARS
National residents: 410.00 ARS
Provincial residents: 80.00 ARS
Children from 6 to 12 years old: 200.00 ARS
Tertiary or university students from Argentina: 80.00 ARS


Once inside you can get through route N ° 11 to:

- Perito Moreno Glacier (80 km of pavement).
- Puerto Lago Argentino - Paraje Punta Bandera (47 km of pavement).
- Lake Roca (50 km of pavement and gravel sectors).
- On Provincial Route 11, National Route 40 and Provincial Route 41 to El Chaltén (220 km of pavement).


Also keep in mind that there are certain times to enter the National Park:

-From September 1 to April 30 from 8 am to 6 pm
-From May 1 to August 31 from 9 am to 4 pm.




My recommendations when visiting the park

-As in all protected areas of our country, pets are not allowed.
-The use of drones is prohibited.
-Consult the status of routes and trails. In winter, due to the presence of snow, the use of covers with nails or chains is mandatory.
-Drive slowly and respect the traffic signs. There are several animals circulating on the trails and routes.
-The fishing is regulated, you have to do it with the corresponding permit (ask the guides).
-You can only make a fire in the stoves set up in campsites and you must bring the firewood to be used.
-Respect the indications of the park rangers. They are the authority of the area.


If you want us to organize your accommodation, trip or excursions contact us!











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